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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end names. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family utterly surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary honour.